Why knitwear pills and how to fix it
Pilling, the fuzzy balls that appear on knitwear, is not a sign of poor quality. The Woolmark Company calls it a very complex phenomenon and states that nobody can guarantee it will not occur. Pills form where the knit rubs against itself or another surface, not because the fibre is cheap.
Does pilling mean the jumper is cheap
Pilling, sometimes called bobbling, is the formation of fuzzy balls on the surface of wool clothing. It is a wear characteristic rather than a material defect, and expensive fibres pill under enough friction just as cheaper ones do. A jumper that pills is not a badly made jumper. It is a jumper that has been worn.
That answer is worth stating plainly because the industry body will not promise otherwise. Woolmark's own position is that pilling is a very complex phenomenon and that nobody can guarantee it will not occur. Anyone selling you a jumper on the promise that it will never pill is going further than the people who certify wool are prepared to go.
What actually causes pills
Rubbing during wear is the cause. The Woolmark Company identifies the elbows, armpits, sleeves, belly and sides of a jumper as the most common areas, and that list is itself the evidence, because those are the places a garment rubs against itself, against a chair, or against whatever is carried over the shoulder. Pills appear where friction is highest, not where the yarn is weakest.
A less obvious cause sits in the laundry cupboard. Woolmark explains that an excessive amount of fabric softener acts as a lubricant, letting fibres move out onto the surface of the jumper more easily and form pills during later washes. Softener does not cause the damage on the day it is used. It sets up the pilling that shows later.
Taking pills off without damaging the knit
Where only a few pills have formed, Woolmark says they can be removed by hand, and that is the safest option because nothing sharp goes near the yarn. A comb can be used as well, very gently.
Across a larger area a battery operated de-piller or fabric shaver is the efficient choice, and Woolmark names both as tools for the job. We carry the Fabric Shaver USB Rechargeable at $39 AUD.
Reducing how much a jumper pills
Turning a jumper inside out before washing reduces pilling, which is Woolmark's own recommendation, and it costs nothing. Skip the fabric softener, or keep it to a small amount in the final rinse. Minimise rubbing during wear where you reasonably can. The washing method that goes with this advice is set out in How to wash a wool or merino jumper.
Which fibres pill less
No fibre is immune. In our experience Mongolian cashmere holds its quality well and resists pilling when it is properly cared for, and that qualifier matters more than the fibre name. Cashmere has its own washing method, covered in How to wash cashmere without ruining it.
Knit-On house brand knitwear is usually made from superfine 18.5 micron Australian merino wool. Where a garment blends the two fibres, the range runs to 91 styles in Women's merino & cashmere blend, from $99 to $499 AUD.
Common questions
Does pilling mean poor quality?
No. Pilling is caused by rubbing, not by fibre quality. The Woolmark Company calls it a very complex phenomenon and states that nobody can guarantee it will not occur. High quality knitwear pills too.
What causes pilling on jumpers?
Rubbing during wear, most often on the elbows, armpits, sleeves, belly and sides. Excessive fabric softener contributes as well, because it acts as a lubricant that lets fibres move onto the surface in later washes.
What is the best tool for removing pilling?
For a few pills, removing them by hand is enough. A comb works if used very gently. Across a larger area, a battery operated de-piller or fabric shaver is more efficient. We stock a USB rechargeable fabric shaver at $39 AUD.
Does washing a jumper inside out reduce pilling?
Yes. The Woolmark Company recommends turning wool clothes inside out before washing. Avoiding fabric softeners and minimising abrasion during wear help as well.